Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear Catwalk Videos
Lanvin Interview Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear - Paris
At Lanvin, the suit takes precedence, with a new approach, new volume and of course a new attitude. The two doors (one small and one big) at the entrance of the podium in Ecole des Beaux-Arts symbolize the multiple possibilities on offer to men, along with all of the constraints that these may mean. Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz try to adapt to new demands and offer to lighten the silhouette as much as possible. This occurs through bi-material jackets with cotton veil at the back or jackets in an unconstructed cut and rolled up sleeves. After lightness, comfort appears to be another central element of the collection. The sartorial and informal spirit makes way for urban sportswear, with laced leather shirts and hooded jackets tucked into high waist trousers. Some new classics for a Lanvin wardrobe that is well entrenched in its era.
Alber Elbaz There’s one small door and then one large door. Big and small, two words that are always in my heart. Before passing away, my mother told me to be big at work and to be small in life. To stay modest and simple but to do the best you can in the professional world. So it’s about that, and we need that nowadays, we need that simplicity in fashion, in life, we need humility, that’s what life is.
Lucas Ossendrijver This season I really wanted the key words to be lightness and comfort, even in everything that is tailored, everything that is shaped. There are no shoulder pads, sometimes there isn’t even a lining, it’s jackets that remain normal at the front, whilst the back is just made with cotton veil. The sleeves aren’t lined but are also made with cotton veil, almost like a shirt. So there’s this idea of layering and lightness. Sometimes it’s too long, sometimes it’s too short, there’s all this topstitch work and embroidery done by hand, like something that is a little badly made, with hanging threads and lengths that are a little bit different. I like this idea of things that aren’t perfect. When we talk about luxury, we always talk about things that are perfect, the perfect outfit, the perfect crocodile shoes, but I think that luxury can also be something else, and I really like things that aren’t perfect, that are imperfect, because I think that life isn’t perfect. The men don’t change every season, we don’t really have a new look every season. What changes is the way in which we live.